Managed to tick Mecca (8b+) on monday 15th november. It was the second day of red-pointing. I first tried it for about 15 minutes last wednesday in the sun and it felt desperate so sacked it off and went home!. Then came back with my mum on the saturday and was syked to just go for a redpoint attempt! I shocked myself by getting to the last few moves which was sick! i then had 3 more goes and kept getting closer and closer to finishing but had nothing left in the tank that day and the light was fading so had to leave it. On the monday the temps were sick cold and I felt strong, had a quick play on it brushing and warming up then sent it first redpoint!, it felt very steady and amazing!! totally syked for some more crushage!
Friday, 5 November 2010
Just got back from a great trip out to Rodellar in Spain. This is with out doubt the best place I have ever been climbing! It is heaven on earth for any climber who likes long, steep sport routes. A wonderland of the steepest crags set in a beautiful gorge where the stuff dreams are made! We spent 6 days at the newly built Kalandraka refugio, which is fanatastic place to base one self. All within walking distance from the crags. Had great fun in the evenings at the bar, chatting to psyched climbers from all over the world, eating good food, drinking cerveza and playing free pool!! The most perfect place to be! We didnt use the hired car all week. Anyway yeh the climbing was out of this world. Was abit of a shock to the system to start off with as every thing was just SO STEEP, long and on tuffa's! But after a couple of days I got use to it and climbed some amazing routes. It was great to do some really long onsights and redpoints again. Its my favorite style of climbing. I ticked some of the great classics such as Nanuk 7c, Egocentisimo 7c, El Delfin 7c+, A Crabita 8a and finished the week off with a pressured last effort on the last day ascent of Les Chacals 8b! 35 metres of the most perfect limestone, with tuffa's, pockets, crimps and a redpoint crux at about 30 metres. Was so happy to send it!!
So yeh a brilliant trip had and we shall be back.