Tuesday, 28 May 2013

New Tricks...

Well its been a busy few weeks as usual with photo-shoots, funerals, working in London, training at the wall and still managing to get out. That’s the great thing about the summer months, our amazing long evenings!! So with two big trips lined up for this summer, I've been needing to get my head in the game for some big routes! With that in mind I've been hitting up some classic crags in the Peak District to get some mileage in.
Routes like Billy Whizz (E2 5c) and High plains drifter (E4 6a) at Lawencefield.
Some Stoney action: Dies Irae (E2 5c), Circe (E5 6b)Kink (E5 6B)Oliver (E4 6a) and Millionaire Touch (E4 6b).   
And then for the first time ever this weekend, we visited the incredible chunk of limestone that is High Tor. For some strange reason we had never climbed there but had heard so much about the cliff so it was time to check it out. We were not disappointed! What an amazing cliff. Ed Booth came and joined us and we all managed to climb two stunning lines up the middle of the right hand side. 30 metres of immaculate limestone with a real feel of isolation on a big wall and a great feeling of topping out in the sun! Flaky Wall (E4 6a) and Supersonic (E5 6a) were truly awesome. 
Then finally I managed to clip the chains on an old nemesis route of mine called Caviar (8a+) down at Rubicon which I tried on and off for a few years now. A fairly short and bouldery offering but what it lack in height it makes up for in hard moves! 
Ed has been checking out a few new bouldering areas. He ticked his way through the classics at Forest Rock such as Enchantress 7C+, Heathan Chemistry 7C+ and In Search Of Blame 8A. Next up was Fredda's Buttress in the Peak where he climbed a fantastic 7C+ called 'Infinite Suspense'. We then both headed down to Crunch Buttress and Ed climbed 'Perfecto' (8a). 

Top wall of Flaky

Starting groove of Supersonic

Top crack of Super

Pumped of Circe

Rubicon in the sun.....

Cheedale WAS dry

Al and Sam rippin at Stoney....

Photo shoot for Wild Country.....Stanage!
Awesome day with the team


Red Chili Nacho shoe advert....Australia! Nick Fletcher!

Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Nesscliffe trippin

Just returned home after an awesome few days climbing at the amazing sandstone crag Nesscliffe in Shropshire. This is one of the best crags I've been to in the UK with out a doubt and have been coming back to it for quite a few years now. After contacting a couple of local Shropshire boys who said they'd be around for the weekend and keen to climb, we packed up and headed down to the McCanns house just a short drive away from the cliff.

First day we headed up to the crag meeting Finn, Ed Booth and Angus, so there was a good team psyche ready for some sending. So we all got involved on a couple of routes Berlin Wall and Il y a Stazi. After working out the moves we then had a few attempts on the different routes, with no success yet we headed around the corner to amazing wall climb, put up by Nick Dixon called Une Jeune Fille quatre vingt dix ans. Its a route protected by 4 pegs, a couple of cams and even an ice screw! So a relatively safe one, even though you can never quite trust the in-situ gear at Nesscliffe, with a grade of E8 6C or F8a depending on how much you trust it all. Having heard Ed Booth had already made the 3rd ascent just the day before we were both raring to go. After a quick look on a rope, getting the moves sorted, it then got its 4th and 5th ascent by myself and Angus in good time. First day psyche was on a high! We then headed home.

Back the next day we got straight back on Stazi and berlin wall. Finn was getting super close on the top moves on Berlin while I was struggling with the big move on Stazi. Ed then had a crack on Berlin E7 6C or 8a, nailing it on his first rp and after some key beta exchange from Boothy, I stuck the move on Stazi and fought my way to the top of the route. It was a fight alright and a relief to hit the top! Ed then smoothly dispatched it a few minutes later. What a route! A bouldery start into an almighty lunge for a thin ledge, followed by a ridiculas mantle shelf then a rest and a final sketchy top wall. All protected by two rather tired and rusty looking bolts half way up the wall. The lower peg broke off! So grade wise is anyone's guess. Given either E8 6C or F8a.
We finished off the day with a team send of Notional Trust E5 6A.

Then back for the last day Ed stuck the top hold on the subtle problem Subtilites V9. A short and fairly desperate looking line while I climbed the big arĂȘte Marlene Direct E7 6C with some cheeky beta on the top crux moves.
So all in all a fantastic few days at the awesome cliff with a great team psyche!
Only downer was the fact that the little Clio broke down and the RAC had to come and sort it out!
Fun times....
Une Jeune Fille E8 6C/8a...

Il y a Stazi E8 6C/8a....

Il y a Stazi E8 6C/8a....

Marlene Direct E7 6C.....

Split tip after success on Subtilitas 7C/V9....

Finn McCann flashing Notional Trust E5 6A

Mammut Boi in DA house!!
Ed Hamer climbing Subtilitas 7C/V9, Nesscliffe.......

                                           Sam Hamer climbing Marlene Direct E7 6C

Thursday, 2 May 2013

Frankenjura vs Wankenjura

To cut a long story short.....The frankenjura was wet! Enjoi the photo's
Ed onsighting 'King Lui 7c'

Sam Flashing 'King Lui 7c'
Ed climbing 'BABH 7b+'
Ethan climbing 'Nullkammanix 8a+'
Welcome Honies!!

Tanja and Sam ;)

Ted P>I>M>P

We still managed to climb some cool routes from 6c - 8b!
 Next stop Nesscliffe innit
bye x